the PIPELINE: Style on Tap

• Previous Visionaire Plugs In, Ungaro Disses LiLo, and Zahm On Display
• Save Fashion Steals: A Vena Cava Mini, Sophomore Skirts, and More All For Chump Change Next

• November 12, 2009 9:45 AM
• News

The 10 Hardest Working Designers In Fashion

By Daniela Jacobs

Given the current economic climate, we couldn't help but feel this latest Fashion Week was overcast with a chance of showers. Yet, when clouds form and belts tighten, it becomes even easier to see which designers can genuinely innovate no matter how scant their resources, and which clothiers are just smoke and mirrors held up by money. Creating short films to showcase collections, traveling to remote Indian villages for fresh inspiration, opening new boutiques in a time when others are closing flagships—fashion's best entrepreneurs are using extraordinary effort and ingenuity to grow their brands in the face of a shrinking economy. Take a few lessons from our top ten of the hardest working designers in fashion—because, when times get tough, the best get even tougher.


Diane Von Furstenberg



Call her fashion's version of a Wonder Woman (a comparison she openly encourages). This unofficial cultural hostess of the Meatpacking District, CFDA President-Elect, and CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award winner isn't resting on her laurels, but continuing to expand her brand's clothes, accessories, shoes, bags, cosmetics, and swimwear (sold in 56 countries) at a pace that would kill a vigorous go-getter half her age.

Above, from left: Diane Von Furstenberg, image via Clutch; Diane von Furstenberg fall '09, image via Style.com; Diane von Furstenberg spring '10, image via Style.com.

Samantha Pleet



Don't be fooled by her cutie-pie appearance. This hungry Brooklyn-based designer has branched out in just about every way possible. She blogs, creates films for each collection, collaborates with Urban Outfitters on her "Rapscallion" line, designs clothes for bands like Au Revoir Simone, produces a men's line, Patrick Pleet, and tries to do it all in the most environmentally-conscious way possible. Look forward to her upcoming a book of paper dolls for Dossier Journal and a new collection of hats and accessories for next season.

Above, from left: Samantha Pleet, image via Fashion Copious; Samantha Pleet spring '09, image via Samantha Pleet.


Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai of Vena Cava



These CFDA runners-up have been running the style circuit like champs in recent seasons. Drawing inspiration from near (Woodstock, NY) and far (India), the duo tap obscure history, African tribal prints, and a touch of contemporary tongue-and-cheek wit to create a brand of ineffable and surprising depth. Who else would ever think of cross pollinating Ancient Egyptian themes and punk styles or pairing silk with beaded safety pins? Their recent collaborations with Gap and Via Spiga helped them gain worldwide recognition, and let's not forget that their blog—VivaVenaCava—is a hoot.

Above, from left: Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai, image via Style.com; Vena Cava fall '09, image via Style.com; Vena Cava spring '10, image from Style.com.


Philip Crangi



This CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award for Best Designer Award winner and craftsman approaches his growing business like an artisan, but still manages to bring himself to larger and larger markets. Every one of his lines including Philip Crangi Jewelry and Giles & Brother employs unusual materials, ancient metalwork techniques, a solid grasp of history, and a scenester's understanding of humor and shock. After recent projects like collaborations with Boy by Band of Outsiders and just about every other truly cool designer at New York Fashion Week, he's just opened his first "brick and mortar" shop, The Crangi Family Project, in Meatpacking District. How does he find the time?

Above, from left: Philip Crangi, image via E.R. Butler & Co.; A piece from Giles & Brother fall '09.


Alexander Wang



After creating his label at just 19 years old (overachiever, much?), this prodigious young man has gained acknowledgement as the designer who led the transformation of sweats from lazy dressing to an edgy, downtown staple. As expertly crafted as his pieces are, they're still comfortable, easy to wear, and always of the moment. His CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award in '09 was the high point of an 18-month period when he collaborated with Gap, Uniqlo, and Keds; saw his work sold in over 200 boutiques; and unveiled a new basics label, T by Alexander Wang. Is it that he's the master of capturing how the hip girls dress or is it that the hip girls all want to be dressed by Alexander Wang? It's a wonderful mystery.

Above, from left: Alexander Wang, photo by Ryan Corban; Alexander Wang spring '10, image via Style.com; Alexander Wang fall '09 image via Style.com.