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• November 25, 2008 2:45 PM
• News

Matthew Williamson? Really? Try Our H&M Dream Designers Instead

By Gabriel Bell

WWD reports that Matthew Williamson, he of the beloved English boho smocks and frocks with an edge, has signed on to do a limited collection for Swede designer home-away-from-home, H&M. We get the Comme connection and definitely Stella and Karl. But honestly, This is all well much of Williamson's handiwork seems like it might have been knocked off by the Mr. Hennes and Mr. Mauritz ages ago. Still, it all gave us pause to wonder: Who would we really like to see take a roll in the designer hay with H&M? Who's glorious designer confections would we go positively berserk over were we to get them for, say, $44.90? Here's our short list of blockbuster collaborations. Hey, and don't forget to TELL US who you want to climb aboard the H&M loveboat—we wanna know.

Who: Dries Van Noten
Why: His Northern-European minimalism will work well with the superstore that has already dedicated years to copying his blending of elementary patterns and unexpected structures. It would be a great chance for him to branch out and get poppy.
Will it Happen: Doubtful—Van Noten never seeks the limelight, doesn't need the cash, and seems content to stay at home with his needle and thread.

More friendly suggestions below.

Who: Martin Margiela
Why: Um, because he's amazing! No, seriously, his high, high, high-concept minimalism and futurist aesthetic would make for buyable pieces that would fly out of the store with or without his name attached. With his name attached, it's a once-in-a-lifetime shopping opportunity. Imagine club kids snapping up shining, no-pocket jackets. Imagine us picking up some super-sharp trousers.
Will it Happen: Like Dries, Margiela is not all that comfortable being the focus of attention (strange for a designer, hunh?). Consumerism is not his bag. That said, if he were really allowed full reign, we imagine he could be interested.


Who: Hedi Slimane
Why: H&M's darker line, Divided, ripped off Slimane left and right, so they should be fairly used to executing his aesthetic on their assembly lines. Slimane's pieces would shave away all the extra decoration and strange shapes H&M often favors, actually bringing their existing style into laser-sharp focus. A leather jacket, simple skinny black suit, or jersey cardigan-style top would be total must haves.
Will it Happen: The bigger question is if and how the retired Slimane would return to designing. If he signs with a major house, forget it. If he goes into business under his own name with backing from, say, LVMH, this is a definite possibility.


Who: Claude Montana
Why: The very prospect of drawing Montana out of retirement to create a mass-market collection would guarantee great sales. Shoulder pads, leather, race-inspired cuts—they're all way back in (we'd root for a Thierry Mugler comeback, too!). If he made an in-store appearance, yeah, we'd fly anywhere for that.
Will it Happen: Montana has been a complete question mark since hanging up his pens. As most of H&M's customers don't remember him and such collaborations simply didn't happen in the '80s, this could be interesting if he ever wanted to rekindle the fashion fires.


Who: Jil Sander
Why: Because if there's anything H&M needs, it's some good construction and fit. If Sander could really do what she wanted (and let's put Raf Simons aside here), open-sleved cowl-necked sweaters and, oh please oh please, full suits could be in the offing for under $200.
Will it Happen: Sander has a lock on the middle and upper markets and repositioning the brand to hit the cheap end of the spectrum would be a mistake. Meanwhile, introducing her to a younger generation of shoppers could transform her into the grand dame of minimalism for years to come. Please think about it, JIl!


Who: Tom Ford
Why: Because we really, really need a simple, sexy, shiny party dress and we only have a few bucks to spend. Also, we know a lot of guys who could use a decent high-collared shirt.
Will it Happen: Ford's luxury approach has always rested upon a pillar of expensive materials. This would be new territory for him and, if he doesn't feel himself above it, such a collab would provide the column inches and laughs that Ford seems to crave. Unlikely, but a total circus if it happens. We can see that the dirty, dirty, sexy ad campaign already.

Anyone else wish to chime in? Use the comments section below.

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